The recently showcased haute couture Spring 21 collections saw designers embracing a fresh, pared-back approach to beauty. Virginie Viard at Chanel showcased an intimate family wedding affair set in the South of France hence lending her models a gamine, lived-in look with strong brows and soft smokey eyes. It was a country wedding after all. Makeup maven Clint Fernandes observes that this matte summery look can be easily adapted to the Indian skin tone. “It’s matte and not overly dewy so works well in the hot Indian climes,” says he.

On the other hand, Maria Grazia Chiuri at Dior was inspired by the symbols and colours of the Tarot deck. She kept her models’ skin natural and eye makeup minimal while letting her creations do the talking.

Moreover, Fendi couture saw model Bella Hadid sporting an evening ready, contoured cheekbones and artfully wet hair. We got acclaimed makeup expert Clint Fernandes to dissect these runway looks.

Fairytale glow

Soft and smokey. Model @RaynaraNegrine takes a final pause before heading down the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture runway. Girls were given a boyish and lived-in look with strong brows and soft smokey eyes for the show makeup. (Photo: Instagram/Chanel.beauty)
Soft and smokey. Model @RaynaraNegrine takes a final pause before heading down the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture runway. Girls were given a boyish and lived-in look with strong brows and soft smokey eyes for the show makeup. (Photo: Instagram/Chanel.beauty)

To pull off the Chanel look, prep the skin with a good moisturiser, followed by primer, foundation, concealer and a setting powder.

Coming to the eyes, the apricot colour has been used in the crease line.

On the eye lid – they’ve used a natural frosty brown which goes into the apricot and mascara.

Eyebrows are shaped and not thinned out or overarched. They’ve just been made neater by plucking and filled in with an eyebrow pencil and an eyebrow gel and brushed out.

The contouring is less and only around the cheek, on the underside of the cheekbones.

On the cheeks, a soft apricot blush has been applied – though mostly on the apples.

Lips have been prepped with a lip balm.

All in all, it’s a natural summery look and easily adaptable to the Indian skin tone.

The hair is flattened out and tied tight and could works well with almost any Indian garment.

Tarot mystique

The Dior Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection has been inspired by symbols and colors of the tarot deck referring to Monsieur Dior’s superstitious beliefs. (Photo: Instagram/DiorMakeup)
The Dior Spring-Summer 2021 Haute Couture collection has been inspired by symbols and colors of the tarot deck referring to Monsieur Dior’s superstitious beliefs. (Photo: Instagram/DiorMakeup)

The Dior skin looks uber luxe so start with a moisturiser and a primer, followed by a dewy finish foundation.

Add concealer wherever needed followed by the dusting of a translucent powder and a setting spray.

Eyes are natural and an identical skin tone eye shadow was used.

Use a darker brown hue on the crease line and blend it out properly.

A water-based cake liner has been used around the eyes.

Make a thin line on the lash line and smudge it slightly followed by mascara.

Contour the cheekbones from the temple ears to the jaw line and blend it into the cheekbone lines.

Blush is optional or one can use soft pink blush to create that kind of freshness.

Use a setting spray so that the blush blends in with the skin.

Lips are minimally done with a lip pencil or a translucent cream lip colour so that it’s neither overly glossy nor extra matte.

The eye brows are minimal with a slight definition. Don’t make the eyebrows too dark. Use a grey brown eyebrow filler and avoid a jet black one.

One can offset the makeup with centre parted hair and a high ponytail which gives a height to the face.

Soignee chicness

Deep blues, flowing transparencies and opulent embroideries: Bella Hadid’s multilayer gown is paired with a mother-of-pearl minaudiere bag, strung from a chain embellished with natural black pearls. (Photo: Instagram/Fendi)
Deep blues, flowing transparencies and opulent embroideries: Bella Hadid’s multilayer gown is paired with a mother-of-pearl minaudiere bag, strung from a chain embellished with natural black pearls. (Photo: Instagram/Fendi)

Bella Hadid’s skin at Fendi is slightly more dewy so use a moisturiser, primer and a dewy foundation followed by a concealer and mattify the T zone with setting powder. And then use a setting spray to get a translucent finish.

Use a dark brown eyeshadow on the eyelid which has been blended into the crease line to form a cat eyed shadow. Also, a bit of that colour has been used on the outer corner lower lid.

On the inner corner of the eye, apply a light iridescent frosted eye shadow followed by a thin eyeliner to create eye definition followed by a double coat of mascara on upper and lower lid and lots of it.

A white kohl pencil on the water line has been used to make the eyes bigger.

Eyebrows are not over defined, but lightly filled in.

Contour the cheekbones and the temple followed by a coral blush on the cheekbones.

Use a hint of highlighter just on the cheeks from the forehead followed by a setting spray.

Lips need to be lined with a nude lip pencil and filled in with the creme lip colour in apricot hue.

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