The *Best* Chemical Exfoliators, According to Cosmo’s Beauty Editors
If your current skincare routine doesn’t include a chemical exfoliant, WYED?! Seriously! Chemical exfoliants are a godsend for smoothing, brightening, and clarifying skin for a next-level glow. Similar to physical exfoliants (like face scrubs and cleansing brushes), chemical exfoliants help eliminate dead skin cells, but in a much more controlled and precise way, says dermatologic surgeon Howard Sobel, MD. “They offer a deeper, more intense exfoliation without the risk of tearing or scratching the skin,” he says.
But here’s the thing: chemical exfoliants can be a little ~confusing~ to use, which is why I hit up the experts for all the need-to-know-info, and also asked the Cosmo beauty team to share their editor reviews on their favorite chemical exfoliators to use at home. You’re welcome.
Meet the experts:
What are chemical exfoliants?
At-home chemical exfoliants can be broken down into three categories: AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. Each group of acids dissolve the cellular bonds (aka the “glue”) that hold together the dead cells on the surface of your skin, but they each have a few key differences, says Melissa Doft, MD. Here’s a quickie breakdown:
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs):
- How AHAs work: AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from fruit, says Dr. Sobel. By removing dead skin cells, AHAs help brighten up your skin tone and smooth the look of rough texture. Some AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acids, even have humectant properties (meaning they pull water into your skin), so they can help keep skin hydrated, says Dr Sobel.
- Types of AHAs: Glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid
- Who AHAs are best for: Anyone with dry, oily, and/or “normal” skin who is looking to fade dark spots, brighten hyperpigmentation, and soften the appearance of fine lines and bumpy texture. Some AHAs (like low-dose lactic, malic, and mandelic acids) are also great for anyone with dry, sensitive skin.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs):
- How BHAs work: BHAs are similar to AHAs, but oil-soluble, which means that in addition to dissolving dead skin cells, these acids are also able to make their way into your pores and get rid of the excess oil and build-up stuck inside. Not only that, but BHAs also have anti-inflammatory benefits, too.
- Types of BHAs: Salicylic acid, plus its natural alternative, willow bark extract
- Who BHAs are best for: Oily and/or acne-prone skin types, or anyone dealing with clogged pores.
Poly hydroxy acids (PHAs):
- How PHAs work: Think of PHAs as AHA’s more easy-going cousin. These acids work the same way, but have a much larger molecule size so they don’t penetrate skin as deeply. The result? Very mild, superficial exfoliation.
- Types of PHAs: Gluconolactone, galactose, and lactobionic acid
- Who PHAs are best for: PHAs are extremely gentle on the skin, which make them a safe choice
for more sensitive skin types, including people with rosacea, eczema, or keratosis pilaris, says Dr. Sobel.
How to choose a chemical exfoliant:
Look for a formula for your skin type
Most at-home chemical exfoliators are formulated with a specific skin type in mind, says Dr. Doft. Save yourself hours of combing through ingredients lists and look for key words, like “for oily skin,” “for sensitive skin,” and “for dry skin” on the label.
Stronger doesn’t always mean better
Just because a chemical exfoliant is made with a high concentration of acids doesn’t automatically make it the best choice for you, says Saya Obayan, MD, who previously told Cosmo that the higher the percentage, the more effective the formula will be at brightening dark spots and smoothing lines—but also the harsher it can be on your skin. If you’re new to using acids, opt for a lower percentage and then gradually work your way up to something stronger as your skin tolerates it.
Consider the rest of your skincare routine
One of the worst things you can do to your skin is over exfoliate it, says Dr Doft. “Overdoing it with chemical exfoliants can weaken your skin’s protective barrier, leading to things like inflammation, breakouts, and even infection.” Stick to just one exfoliating product at a time and use it as directed—and if you’re using other strong actives, like retinoids or vitamin C, use your chemical exfoliant on alternating days/nights to avoid irritation.
The best chemical exfoliants of 2022:
Keep scrolling for the entire list of the 20 best chemical exfoliants for every skin type and concern.
Khadija Horton